Day One: Reykjavik

My campervan and the "RV" section of the campground in Reykjavik.

It's 9 a.m. in the campground right downtown Reykjavik. Even though there is space for perhaps 40 or so RVs, there were only five last night -- three motorhomes about the size of what we would call small Class Cs, one small Class A motorhome and my campervan. A couple from a nearby town is in a choice spot in the corner of the campground in caravan, a 16-foot travel trailer. A Winnebago Brave was parked just outside the campground proper last night; it surprised me to see an American motorhome. Virtually all the RVs here are made in Europe.

The campground charges per person. Kathy and I paid about $25 (US) for our campsite and that was for no hookups. The nearby office includes a patio where you can log on for free to WiFi. The bathrooms are spacious with free showers. Last night when we returned from downtown, the patio area was buzzing with activity -- people drinking coffee or catching up with business on their laptops or iPhones. So far, everyone has been very friendly.

Services available at the campground

There is no language problem here: when you speak to a native, the minute they recognize you are an American they switch to English -- sounding more "American than English." In school the children are taught a more "English" English, but because they watch so much American television, their dialect gradually begins to sound American.

Our little Renault campervan from Happy Campers is much smaller than what I am accustomed to. It has a fold down double bed, which is surprisingly comfortable. The kitchen consists of a small sink with running water (the fresh water tank is about five gallons), and a portable one-burner stove. A small 12-volt fridge holds the basic stuff. There is no shower or bathroom or holding tanks: the kitchen sink drains to the ground, which is acceptable and legal.

Yet even though the tiny RV is cramped by what most of us travel with, it more than does the job. A solar panel and one deep cell battery are very effective -- the small electric heater keeps the camper toasty, and I'm told it will run virtually all night if someone needed so desired.

The only hookups are for electricity. I don't think there are any full hookup sites available on the entire island. Some of the RVs carry cassette holding tanks, which you dump much like a porta-potty. A sign at the campground office has directions to the nearest location, which appears to be a couple of miles away.

Kathy and I spent the evening in Reykjavik, population 200,000. It's an easy city to drive in, practically no traffic, at least after work hours. After being in England for the past two weeks (and driving on the left side of the road), this "big city" doesn't seem very big at all. The fact is, Iceland is about the same size as England, but has a mere 320,000 inhabitants compared to 51 million in England. After we pull out of Reykjavik today, we will begin to feel the sense of isolation we expected.

Downtown is "cute." I think that is the best description. There are few buildings more than a few stories tall and many are colorful. Not too far away there are skyscrapers, perhaps 25 stories the highest. You have never seen so many shops selling wool products -- sweaters, hats, mittens, etc: Iceland is known for its world-class wool. Kathy enjoys knitting, and browsing in the shops here must be like the "Superbowl of Knitting" to her. I think the prices are comparable to what you would pay in the states.

Fish and lamb are the two restaurant menu items recommended -- and nothing else is considered close. However, for our first night, Kathy and I opted for a small Italian restaurant in the heart of town. The Italian owner welcomed up and told us the building has been occupied since the 1880s, always as a hotel, restaurant or both. My meal was not outstanding, but tasty, so no complaints. We'll look for fish and lamb once we head into the countryside.

We're headed back into town this morning, and then are off to explore geysers at Gullfoss. Either today or tomorrow we will soak up the warm waters of the Blue Lagoon.

I'll write more again the next time I get a bit of time and an internet connection.